From: Subject: Pilgrimage to Kosovo Today Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2007 08:12:19 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; type="text/html"; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0000_01C75EFD.FE692930" X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.3028 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C75EFD.FE692930 Content-Type: text/html; charset="utf-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Location: http://www.kosovo.net/pilgrimg.html =EF=BB=BF Pilgrimage to Kosovo Today

 

A Pilgrimage to Kosovo Today

By Ryassaphore Nun Natalia
Holy Cross Scete, = Ca=20

An=20 inspiring pilgirmage report by a nun of Holy Cross Skete
with=20 impressions from her visit to the Orthodox shrines of Kosovo in = 1996

 1. ON OUR WAY TO=20 KOSOVO=20

FIVE = HUNDRED and=20 thirty years ago, says St. Nikolai Velimirovic, "Tsar Lazar chose = the=20 heavenly Kingdom. He stood with Christ and His honorable Cross, = and lost=20 both his [earthly] kingdom and his head. The world thought that = Lazar had=20 suffered a catastrophic defeat and that the Serbian nation was = broken=20 forever. However, the event preserved an invisible radiance that = was never=20 shrouded in fog. 'All was holy and honorable and acceptable to our = gracious God. "

To this day in the land of Kosovo, there = are men=20 and women who have chosen to follow in the footsteps of their = ancestral=20 king, and by "choosing the kingdom of the highest ideals," they = are=20 gaining heavenly crowns through their sufferings. It was to this = land, and=20 to this people, that we were blessed to make a pilgrimage during = the=20 summer of 1996.
From my youth, all that I had ever heard about = Serbia=20 was the American media's horrific description of the atrocities of = the war=20 in Bosnia. Besides this, I knew it was an Orthodox country, and = regarded=20 the iconography as some of the best in the world. In utmost = eagerness I=20 had anticipated this journey, hardly even daring to believe that I = would=20 actually be going. Never in my life had I been to a traditional = Orthodox=20 country and walked on holy ground where monastics had labored for = hundreds=20 of years. I had no idea of the profound effect that this land and = those=20 whom we would meet would have upon my soul. Most of the people = still live=20 in villages and till the land in Serbia. Nowhere did you see a = fast-mart=20 gas station, suburban mall, or fast-food restaurant. It was a = common sight=20 to behold a man and his sons riding a horse-drawn cart carrying a = huge=20 mound of hay, with geese and pigs running in front. When the bus = slowed=20 down, one could at times look into the faces of the people on the = side of=20 the road, and wonder what they thought of us American tourists who = had=20 stepped right out of the Western world Our bus wound its way = through the=20 beautiful Serbian countryside filled with rolling fields of wheat = and=20 golden expanses of sunflowers. The land with its cultivated hills, = plum=20 tree orchards, grapevines and farms was a feast for the eyes. The = colors=20 themselves and the sky seemed to be brighter than usual. Since = Serbia is=20 mostly a rural country, nearly everyone works in the fields, = peacefully=20 tending gardens and animals, as if in fulfillment of the ancient = law given=20 to Adam to labor and bring forth fruit by the sweat of his brow. = No=20 supermarkets are to be found; meals are made with bread from a = family's=20 own wheat, cheese from their own cow, and vegetables from their = own=20 garden. Picturesque haystacks dot the verdant fields, and the = simple=20 white-washed houses with red-tiled roofs only enhance the beauty = of the=20 countryside. We couldn't get enough of the sight, and it caused us = to=20 reflect on how far away we have removed ourselves from the = original plan=20 of salvation, and how much has been lost in the modern world. No = wonder=20 there is such emptiness in the hearts of our people; the natural = way of=20 life given to us has been replaced with "virtual reality," TV = dinners, and=20 concrete jungles. No wonder so few in America are still willing to = die for=20 their country, or even to express a love for it.

On our way = south to=20 Kosovo, we were blessed to venerate the miracle -working relics of = the=20 holy Tsar-Martyr Lazar himself, where they lie whole and incorrupt = in the=20 Monastery of Ravanica. We were traveling on a tourist bus with Fr. = Milos,=20 the Serbian pastor of a large parish in Illinois, and some of his=20 parishioners, mostly American Serbs. Ravanica Monastery is a = God-graced=20 monastic abode, treasuring not only the relics of the = all-venerable Tsar=20 Martyr Lazar, but also those of St. Romilos, disciple of St. = Gregory of=20 Sinai, and Blessed Euphemia (+1958) The monastery suffered ruin = and=20 desolation many times in its history: the Moslems burnt and pulled = it down=20 in 1396, 1436, 1436 and again in 1686-7, when all the monks were = killed.=20 The monastery was assaulted once more in the early 1 9th century, = and=20 finally it was badly damaged by Germans during World War II when = its=20 Abbot, Macarios, was arrested, tortured, and put to death by a = firing=20 squad in 1943. Due to the efforts of Bishop Nikolai Velimirovich's = spiritual daughter, Schema-Abbess Euphemia, Ravanica Monastery was = spiritually renewed, and is now the largest women's monastery in = Serbia,=20 with many young nuns.

We were bringing with us the Life of=20 Schema-Abbess Euphemia which our monastery had recently published = in=20 English. After venerating the relics in the church, we proceeded = to sing a=20 Panikhida at the grave of Blessed Euphemia. There, the first = English=20 edition of the life of the spiritual mother of Ravanica was = presented to=20 Abbess Gabriela and the sisters.

3D"Ravanica
Ravanica Monastery


Mother Gabriela had entered the monastery when she was = twelve, and=20 Abbess Euphemia had raised her to be her successor. She had been = through=20 all the wandering, exile, and trials of war with Blessed Euphemia, = and was=20 the main author of this book. Mother Gabriela was deeply moved, = and said=20 how thankful they were that the veneration of their spiritual = mother had=20 spread across the ocean. Abbess Gabriela told us later that they = gained=20 courage to publish the Life only after they saw the Life of St. = John=20 Maximovitch, since they thought that no one would believe what = they wrote=20 about Blessed Euphemia. Fr. Milos wrote in the Preface to this = book that=20 it is "a balm on the wounds of the present Serbian suffering."=20

Filled with the grace we received there, and the blessing = of=20 Tsar-Martyr Lazar, at last we were to go to the heartland of = Serbia's=20 history of martyrdom -to the region of Kosovo.
The farther = south we=20 traveled, the higher up we went into the mountains, passing famous = monasteries and ancient fortresses. Along this same road the = warriors of=20 Kosovo traveled: "These were good men, brave men, manly men both = in word=20 and deed, men who shone like glistening stars, like fields = embellished=20 with dazzling flowers-who shone as though they were adorned in = golden=20 raiment and precious stones."

There were rainstorms up in = the=20 higher elevations; the hills were green, and the air clear and = fresh. From=20 the top of a river gorge, we looked down and noticed several caves = along=20 the cliffs. I thought to myself that surely there must have been = desert=20 dwellers in this wilderness, silently guarding the monastic flame. = As we=20 crossed over into the Moslem area, there was a noticeable = difference in=20 the surrounding countryside. In the midst of the most incredible, = majestic=20 scenes of nature, smoking piles of trash were left along the = highway. More=20 and more minarets appeared, rising out of small mountain villages. = It=20 somehow felt as if we were no longer in Serbia, but in occupied=20 territory..

 2. = THE PATRIARCHATE OF PEC=20


It took about seven hours to reach our first = destination in=20 Kosovo. Several young people from the youth choir of St. Stephen = Decani,=20 from Novi Sad, also joined us on this part of the trip. They were = joyfully=20 singing in the back for most of the trip, but as night drew on and = the bus=20 continued winding its way, we all began to wonder when we would = arrive. On=20 the bus we marveled that we were traveling to the same area in = which the=20 righteous Katherine of Pec had lived and labored. All we knew = about her=20 was that she lived in the second half of the 19th century, and = actually=20 started a school for girls in Pec during a time when all women, = especially=20 women monastics, were subject to slavery and great harassment by = the=20 Turks.

3D"The
The Patriarchate of Pec


When=20 it was finally announced that we were at the monastery, the huge = rock=20 fortress-like walls of the Patriarchate of Pec stood before us = guarding=20 the entrance. It was already after 10 p.m., but in the darkness we = could=20 make our way along the cobblestone path, and hear the sound of a = little=20 stream running through the gardens. At last we had arrived at the=20 stronghold and seedbed of the Serbian Orthodox Church. We were = walking on=20 holy ground.
Situated at the mouth of a picturesque river = gorge, whose=20 caves were once inhabited by hermits, the Patriarchate of Pec was = founded=20 in the 13th century, and was the ancient center of the hierarchs = of=20 Serbia. It was not until later that we found out that the = Tsar-Martyr=20 Lazar himself had received the Holy Mysteries in this church. = Since it is=20 on a main road, the Patriarchate has been devastated many times.=20 Historically it was a men's monastery, but the last monks were = expelled in=20 1941, and it was without monastics until 1957. During that time, = seventy=20 families came to live at Pec Monastery, to guard it against the = Albanian=20 Moslems who sought to destroy it. The Abbess, Mother Fevronia, was = asked=20 to come from another monastery with a group of seven nuns in 1957. = The=20 extensive monastery lands were confiscated by the com munists, = except for=20 a small forest. Only the church was left standing. In 1981 the old = konak=20 was set on fire by the Moslems. All of the nuns' personal = belongings were=20 destroyed, but the treasury and food storage were saved. Abbess = Fevronia=20 told us, "The greatest problems were in 1957 when they tried by = every=20 means to expel us. Their children left school to torment the = sisters, so=20 we had to ask the protection of the police, and always had police = at our=20 monastery gate. But the terror is now directed at the Serbian = police, and=20 many of them have been killed." Due to the danger of the area = where the=20 monastery is located, they have not had a new sister for fifteen = years.=20 This was a source of sadness for them, since many of them are = growing old,=20 and there are no young ones yet to replace them. Someone mentioned = later=20 that a new sister was on her way there to become a nun.

It = was=20 awesome to walk into the church, which is dedicated to SS. Peter = and Paul.=20 The three large stone churches built together are all connected by = the=20 narthex: the Church of the Apostles, the Church of St. Demetrius, = and the=20 main Church of the Hodigitria Virgin. Outside is also a small, = richly=20 frescoed stone chapel dedicated to St. Nicholas of Myra. As we = entered the=20 main church of the Virgin, we were struck by the feeling of = holiness that=20 surrounded us. In reverence we wondered what was the source of all = of this=20 grace. It was not until later that the mystery was revealed. There = are=20 relics of fourteen different holy hierarchs and martyrs here: St. = Sava II,=20 St. Nikodim, St. Maxim, St. Ioannikios, St. Arsenios, St. = Spyridon, St.=20 Ephraim, St. Sava III, St. Daniel II; and also the relics of the = five=20 martyrs Orestes, Mardarios, Auxentios, Eugene and Eustratios. Upon = a=20 golden throne of carved wood was the miracle-working icon of the = Theotokos=20 of Pec. This was one of the seventy icons painted by the Apostle = Luke=20 himself in the Garden of Gethsemane in 48 A.D. At first it was = hard for me=20 to believe, since it shone with an absolute radiance and did not = seem=20 ancient at all. The icon is hung with chains of gold and coins, = placed=20 there by people in gratitude, silently bearing witness to the = miracles=20 performed. We stood in front of this icon for three mornings in = prayer and=20 watched as the nuns never crossed in front of it without = reverently making=20 a prostration to the ground.

The intensity of the majesty = of the=20 church was enough to make you tremble. Upon the walls are painted=20 larger-than-life frescos of the scenes of Christ's life. Fearsome = angels=20 with penetrating eyes stand flashing their swords at you from the = walls,=20 so full of character and expression that it seems as if they would = come=20 alive and sweep their weapons down upon you. The whole host of the = saints=20 of Serbia are depicted as a heavenly triumphant choir along the = ceiling.=20 As I turned around to walk out, I caught my breath, as there, on = either=20 side of the doorway are painted two huge frescos which I = recognized from=20 the icon books I had studied: that of St. Nicholas and of the Most = Holy=20 Theotokos. The ancient kings and patriarchs of Serbia also stand = in=20 procession, arrayed in heavenly finery which still retains its = bright=20 colors. In fear and absolute awe we attended the Divine Liturgy on = the day=20 of St. Marina, one of the most sublime and grace-filled services = we had=20 ever experienced. A friend described the singing of the youth = choir to be=20 so beautiful that it was as if the door to heaven was left ajar. = On that=20 morning, in the presence of all of the saints buried there, and = with=20 clouds of incense rising high up to the majestic Pantocrator in = the dome,=20 it really felt as if we were close to Paradise.

One night = we asked=20 the Abbess if we might be able to pray alone in the church for a = while. As=20 we sat outside waiting in the warm summer evening, one of the nuns = brought=20 us some melon and asked if we would sing something in English. We = sang our=20 troparion to the Precious Cross, and with joy she also rewarded us = with a=20 hymn in Serbian. Even though we could not speak their language, we = communicated to some extent and delighted in one another's = presence.=20 Several of the nuns were very interested to know if we had any = icons of=20 the beloved St. John Maximovitch of Shanghai and San Francisco. = The Serbs=20 also consider him to be one of their own. As she went to retire, = the=20 sister handed us the two keys to their church. There we were, two = sinful=20 American nuns holding the huge and ancient keys to the church of = the=20 Patriarchs of Serbia. There we were, all alone, pouring out our = prayers in=20 supplication as we sang the Akathist hymn before the icon of the = Mother of=20 God. The lampadas were softly glowing in the darkness, and I was = almost=20 scared as I tiptoed alone into each of the churches, gazing at the = large=20 frescoes, surrounded by the relics of the holy Patriarchs. There = we stayed=20 until someone came looking for us.

The monastery = surroundings were=20 the loveliest we had ever beheld. Huge mountains rose up on all = sides, and=20 a crystal-clear river ran outside the walls. Shepherds could be = seen with=20 their sheep and donkeys on the hills, and in the mornings you = could hear=20 the tinkling bells of the sheep and the sweet piping of the = shepherds. I=20 had never seen a real shepherd before, or caught the free melody = of his=20 song. So much care was given to the gardens-there were flowers of = all=20 kinds bursting with color, evergreen bushes trimmed in the form of = a=20 cross, and the harmony of the humming bees and flowing stream = sounded=20 softly in the air. Only the ruins of the old buildings, the = graveyard, and=20 the suffering faces of the nuns bore witness to the martyrdom that = this=20 monastery has endured over the centuries.

During the last = Liturgy=20 at the Monastery of Pec, Fr. Milos gave a final, beautiful homily = on the=20 Gospel passage of the laborers in the vineyard. He spoke of those = who are=20 chosen, meaning the monks and nuns who labor in the monasteries of = Kosovo,=20 those who have given their entire life to God to live in an = unending=20 Liturgy with Him. "Our work is to beautify the world around us," = he said,=20 "and perhaps we will somehow be counted among the chosen in = heaven, or at=20 least be able to behold the light of those who are=20 there."

 3. = DECANI MONASTERY=20

From the = Patriarchate=20 of Pec we went to several different monasteries in Kosovo. The = first day=20 we traveled to one which became our favorite of all the men's = monasteries.=20 The monastery church at Decani, one of the largest medieval = churches in=20 Serbia, was never completely abandoned or desecrated. It is said = that=20 after the Battle of Kosovo there was a plan to convert the church = into a=20 mosque. This plan was abandoned when a Turk praying in front of = the=20 doorway in the direction of Mecca was killed by a falling=20 stone.

3D"Decani
Decani=20 Monastery


The=20 church was completed in 1335 by St. = Stephen of=20 Decani, whose whole, incorrupt and miracle-working relics lie = inside.=20 He built the Monastery out of gratitude to God for healing his = blindness.=20 St. Stephen's life was martyric from his early youth. When only a = boy, he=20 was sent by his father, King Milutin, as a hostage of the Tartars = to be a=20 guarantee of Serbian trust. With God's help, he was delivered from = imprisonment, only to be slandered to his father, who had him = blinded and=20 sent to Pantocrator Monastery in Constantinople in order that the = strict=20 asceticism might weaken and kill him. St. Nicholas appeared to him = and=20 told him he would one day restore his sight. Bishop Nikolai = Velimirovich=20 says of St. Stephen's exile: "By his wisdom and ascesis, his = meekness and=20 devotion, his patience and greatness of soul, Stephen surpassed = not only=20 the monks in that monastery but those in the whole of = Constantinople."=20 Five years later St. Nicholas came to him during a vigil service = and=20 restored his eyesight as he had promised. After his return to = Serbia,=20 Stephen was crowned king by the holy Archbishop Nikodim in the = church at=20 Pec. His son, King Dusan, disagreed with his father on the course = their=20 country should take and had his father strangled, and thus the = martyr-king=20 finished his much-suffering course. When his casket was opened, = his relics=20 were found to be whole and incorrupt, and began working miracles.=20 Repentant, Tsar Dusan crawled on his knees from the village of = Decani to=20 the Monastery, begging the forgiveness of God. Dusan went on to = become one=20 of Serbia's mightiest rulers. St. Stephen's miracle-working = presence can=20 be felt there very strongly; he is sought especially for the = healing of=20 the eyes. Many miracles have been performed for non-Orthodox and = even=20 Moslems. Even today, one can see Albanian Moslems of Kosovo-men, = women,=20 and children-coming to visit the Serbian monastery. The men wear = their=20 white skullcaps; and their women, holding infant children or = walking=20 alone, come to venerate the Mother of God, or the relics of a = saint which=20 are treasured in the monastery and are known to help where all = else fails.=20 While we were there we saw a Moslem woman and her family who had = come to=20 be healed by St. Stephen.
The entire inside of the church is = covered=20 with more than 1,000 luminous frescos which are almost entirely = preserved.=20 Sunlight streamed in from the high windows adorning the dome, and = it truly=20 seemed as if we were walking into a cradle of holiness. The tomb = of St.=20 Stephen is raised off the ground in such a way that one can crawl = all the=20 way underneath for a special blessing. The relics of his sister, = St.=20 Helena, are also there, together with a coffin containing the = bones of=20 some of the warriors of the Battle of Kosovo. According to = tradition, St.=20 Helena was forced to marry the Bulgarian King Michael. She was = later=20 banished, returned co Serbia and became a nun. At one time during = World=20 War I, the Bulgarians tried to take away the casket of St. Helena = but fire=20 shot out of it and scorched the wall. A crack and black mark can = still be=20 seen. They also tried to take away the relics of St. Stephen on a = cart.=20 Reaching the village, they were stopped by an invisible force and = had to=20 bring them back.

Although the church in Decani Monastery = has been=20 preserved unscathed, the brotherhood and monastery grounds have = suffered=20 greatly throughout the centuries at the hands of the Moslems, and = most=20 recently from the communists. Everything except the church had = been=20 totally destroyed and burnt to the ground, while the monks lived = in great=20 peril for their lives. For twenty years the monastery only had = four=20 elderly hieromonks in its community, and it was not until four = years ago=20 that it was safe enough to send more brothers. Even today, iron = bars cover=20 most of the windows, and the number of hostile Albanians in the = nearby=20 village ever increases.

Being almost completely surrounded = by=20 Moslems, Decani Monastery has become an important spiritual and = missionary=20 center for the whole country. In September of 1992, more than = 2,000 people=20 were baptized in the Bistrica River outside the monastery. There = are twenty = brothers=20 there now, and we were surprised that many of them were young, not = older=20 than their mid-thirties. The most recent brother, twenty-two years = old,=20 had arrived the week before to become a novice. We learned that he = used to=20 be a theater and movie actor, as well as a guitar player in a very = popular=20 band. Right before leaving for the monastery, he had won several = awards=20 for his acting in television performances, and there was not one = popular=20 magazine in Serbia that had not interviewed or written an article = about=20 him as the greatest new young talent. On top of this, his rock = band=20 released a debut album that hit number one on the top television = lists in=20 Serbia. But he despised all this in order to become a monk and so = die to=20 the world. We learned that under the inspired spiritual fatherhood = of=20 Bishop Artemye, who followed in the footsteps of the hermit St. = Peter of=20 Koris in Crna Reka Monastery, Decani is attracting more and more = urban=20 youth from the subculture.

There was something very = familiar about=20 this monastery, and we realized with amazement that it felt very = much like=20 our St. Herman of Alaska Monastery in the mountainous wilderness = of=20 California, where the grave of Fr. Seraphim Rose lies. As we = walked down=20 the hallways, there was a lively feeling in the air. Everything = was worn=20 and handmade; even the smells from the kitchen seemed the same! = Even=20 though we were not to meet the young monks, it was encouraging to = know=20 that young people coming straight out of the contemporary world = were also=20 struggling here. We were inspired to see that publishing was also = a part=20 of their life. At that time they were working on the life of St. = Stephen=20 of Decani. Seeing their publishing labors made us feel all the = more at=20 home in this holy monastery on the other side of the = world.

A=20 mountain river runs along the outside wall, but unfortunately it = is a=20 popular spot for sunbathers. One of the hieromonks, Fr. Sava, = spoke=20 English and was blessed to show us the monastery. He said that = many of the=20 monks there, including himself, were converted by the writings of = Fr.=20 Seraphim Rose, who seemed to speak right to their hearts in the = modern=20 language. In a later letter to us he wrote, "Fr. Seraphim Rose, = who was=20 one of the greatest contemporary beacons of Orthodoxy, helped many = of us=20 with his wonderful writings to find our way to Orthodoxy and = monasticism.=20 We were blind to our tradition, and it was only then when we heard = the=20 living words of a contemporary saint that we felt the meaning and = value of=20 our faith."

In the light of the bright afternoon sun we = were shown=20 the monastery barn yard and wood shop, where some of the brothers = were=20 working on wood carvings and repairs. Pointing up to a nearby = mountain,=20 Fr. Sava said that there are caves and hermitages where desert = dwellers=20 used to live across the gorge. A little door in the stone wall = surrounding=20 the monastery was pointed out to us, where the communists used to = spy on=20 the monks.
With the sounding of the semantron, we all went to = church=20 for Vespers. The young pilgrims were very inspired since St. = Stephen is=20 the patron of their choiri thus, the singing was more magnificent = than=20 ever before. On the right side of the church was the largest = fresco I had=20 ever seen, of the Lord in full figure; and there was such a look = of love=20 and infinite wisdom in His face that you could just stand there = and pray=20 for hours. The monks in their klobuks conducted the services at = the left=20 kliros. As the youth choir began singing "O Gentle Light," = sunbeams were=20 playing high above on the face of the Pantocrator in the dome. = Words=20 cannot describe the resplendence of this simple services but = everyone=20 expressed afterwards that it had greatly moved their = hearts.

It was=20 clear that the long-suffering Martyr-King Stephen of Decani is = drawing=20 young souls to the spiritual battlefield in the heart of Kosovo. = His=20 monastery offers those who wish to follow in his footsteps a = voluntary=20 life of tribulation and sorrow with the chance to purify = themselves like=20 gold in the furnace. The political situation in Kosovo right now = is on the=20 brink of explosion. But in the words of Bishop Nikolai = Velimirovic:=20 "Assuredly, one who sacrifices everything for one radiant ideal = has always=20 emerged victorious." They are like lambs for the slaughter, who = are=20 joyfully preparing themselves to join the heavenly choir of the = New=20 Martyrs of Serbia.

(Interview with Fr. Theodosy, the abbot of Decani=20 Monastery)

 3.=20 GRACANICA MONASTERY=20

The next = day we were=20 to visit the monastery containing the church which is considered = the most=20 beautiful in the Orthodox world. This monastery is located next to = a large=20 city very near the place where the Battle of Kosovo was fought. = One gets=20 the impression that it is not very easy here, being right in the = middle of=20 a hostile Moslem neighborhood.

3D"Gracanica
Gracanica Monastery

Gracanica = Monastery=20 was St. King Milutin's greatest gift to the church in Serbian = medieval=20 times. He built forty churches, one for each year of his rule; = this one=20 was built in 1315. "In the alternating light and shadows Gracanica = appeared to be an apparition of unreal beauty which inspired these = verses=20 from Desanka Maximovic: 'O Gracanica, if you were not made of = stone, you=20 would be raised to the skies."' A great cultural and artistic = center=20 Gracanica was famous for its library and printing in the late 16th = century.

The monastery suffered numerous attacks, = especially during=20 the time of the Battle of Kosovo, when the buildings and precious=20 manuscripts were burned and destroyed. In World War II, the = restored konak=20 was again totally ruined, and the church did not go unscathed. As = in most=20 other monasteries during the war, the monks were either killed, = sent to=20 concentration camps or conscripted, leaving the monastery without=20 protection. During the time when there were no monks, several = Serbian=20 families lived in the monastery to protect it from = destruction.

As=20 we entered the church, it was very sad to see how the communists = had=20 carved out part of the frescoed walls of the narthex and replaced = them=20 with modern glass. The challenging gazes of the fully-armed = warrior saints=20 still depicted their utter fearlessness in the face of evil and = their=20 readiness to eternally fight the battle against the prince of this = world.=20 The noble women martyrs and Old Testament saints look down from = the walls=20 of the high, darkened vaults. On many of the frescos, the eyes = have been=20 gouged out by the God-haters, in an attempt to rob the saints of = their=20 power by blinding the windows to their souls.

Abbess = Euphrosynia,=20 who has lived in this monastery for forty-three years, welcomed = us, and at=20 our request described the monastery's present situation. The = Abbess of Pec=20 Monastery, Mother Fevronia, who had also come with us, said that = everyone=20 is waiting to see how long the peace will last. "We are waiting"; = said=20 Mother Euphrosynia, "we never know when the Moslems will come. If = they set=20 fire to us, we'll burn for Christ." Mother Fevronia quietly = interjected,=20 "They will not burn us. They will hang us from trees." These nuns = are=20 ready to die, or they would not be here.

Abbess Euphrosynia = told us=20 how she came to be appointed Superior of the monastery: "Six years = ago=20 they gave me this heavy yoke which I didn't want to take. I = begged, I=20 cried, I pleaded that this should not happen to me." But the = Patriarch=20 said to her, "Mother, I do not like what I have to do, but that is = our=20 cross." The Abbess said she continually looks for someone younger = and more=20 intelligent to replace her, but that the most beautiful thing to = do is to=20 obey and follow. "Whoever wants to eat has to labor." With tears = she went=20 on, "For twenty-five years my obedience was to take care of the = church.=20 When they made me abbess, I exchanged gold for = ashes."

Gracanica=20 was always a men's monastery, but since the war nuns have come. = Now there=20 are sixteen sisters; many of them are young. It was clear that the = monastic life is strong here, despite the outward difficulties. = None of=20 the sisters are allowed to miss church services. Three of the nuns = have=20 university degrees, and six others have come within the last two = years.=20 Understanding the limitations of modern youth who are raised in = cities and=20 are unaccustomed to the hard physical labors with which monastics = have=20 occupied themselves for centuries, Mother Euphrosynia guides them = step by=20 step. "I don't let them work too hard," she told us. "They do = lighter=20 chores. We do not want to overburden them."
In this she echoed = the=20 wisdom of Metropolitan Amphilohye Radovic of Montenegro, a beloved = leader=20 of Serbian youth, who with his monks has published many of Fr. = Seraphim=20 Rose's writings. Metropolitan Amphilohye speaks of the "ground = being=20 prepared for rejuvenation in the monastic ranks from another = circle, the=20 urban circle. The village, from which up until today came the vast = majority of monks and nuns, is today becoming less significant. = Urban=20 society forms people in a different mold and instills in them new=20 spiritual problems, often creating new traumas, unknown to the = rural=20 society. Only true spiritual life and truly spiritually = transformed people=20 will be in a state to accept these people and reveal to them the = true and=20 certain paths to salvation." He continues to explain that in the = post-war=20 years, great concern was understandably given to the renovation of = churches and buildings and the improvement of monastery economics. = However, excessive concern for the economic progress of = monasteries can=20 become harmful to the spiritual life of the monastic communities, = for=20 which purpose they exist. This reinforces the necessity for the = "gradual=20 orientation of our monasteries to spiritual activity and = 'obediences'=20 (publication and printing of spiritual literature, iconography, = liturgical=20 embroidery, handcrafts, etc.)." Thus, the renewal in monasteries = will have=20 a twofold effect on the world: "In the flux of time they remain a = reminder=20 of eternal reality and have a transfiguring effect on every new = society=20 and on people of all epochs and of all times."

In speaking = with=20 some of the young nuns in other monasteries in Serbia, we = discovered that=20 this "new blood" does indeed long for a monastic life more = centered on the=20 development of the interior life of prayer, not excluding manual = labor and=20 hospitality but allowing enough time for the reading of spiritual = books,=20 solitary prayer, and intellectual activity. More of Fr. Seraphim = Rose's=20 books are being printed in Serbia, and many of the young people = with whom=20 we talked knew of him. He is popular because his writings = re-connect them=20 with the ancient wisdom of their Orthodox faith.

Every = spring a=20 carpet of wild red peonies blooms near Gracanica over the field of = Kosovo,=20 which is believed to represent the blood of the tens of thousands = of=20 warriors who died in battle. The earthly Kingdom lasts for a brief = time,=20 but the heavenly kingdom always and forever. As we were leaving = the=20 monastery, drops of rain began falling down upon us from the clear = skies,=20 and we received this with gratitude, knowing it was a sign of = God's=20 grace.

 4. = DEVIC MONASTERY=20

We almost = did not make=20 it to see Monastery Devic, but little did we know beforehand that = it was=20 to be the most moving of them all. It was not clear on the map = exactly=20 where the monastery was located. Our bus stopped at least four = times to=20 ask the peasants on the road its location, but no one would tell = us. We=20 were in Albanian Moslem territory and people were uncooperative, = seeing=20 that we were Christians. As the bus traveled on, it seemed as if = we were=20 not going to make it. Quietly we sang a magnification to St. = Ioannikios,=20 begging him to let us find his monastery. The next person we asked = said=20 the turn was just 100 yards in front of us; and so, filled with = gratitude,=20 we reached the gates.

3D"Devic
Devic=20 Monastery

 St. Ioannikios of=20 Devic =

The = founder of Devic=20 Monastery, St. Ioannikios, guards the monastery and the nuns from = the=20 hostility which surrounds them. Born in the 14th century, = loannikios left=20 his boyhood home in Zeta as a teenager, seeking solitude and the=20 contemplative life. He built a cell in the wooded area of the = Black River,=20 thus continuing in the tradition of St. Peter of Korisha, who = spent many=20 years there in prayer and fighting the demons. Many disciples = gathered=20 around him because of his great asceticism and holiness. Fleeing = the=20 praise of men, he moved to the forests of Devic and continued = struggling=20 in silence. For this he was granted the gifts of unceasing prayer = with=20 tears and the casting out of demons. During his lifetime and after = his=20 death St. Ioannikios worked innumerable miracles, both for the = pious=20 Orthodox and for non-believers.

 A History of=20 Suffering =

Of all the = persecuted=20 monasteries that we visited, Devic seemed to be the most martyred. = As we=20 walked up the dusty path through the monastery, its poverty = clearly spoke=20 of the innumerable sufferings and deprivation that the monastics = have had=20 to endure.
The first persecution came in 1455 when the region = fell to=20 the Turks. In 1544 all the monks were expelled since the monastery = and all=20 its property came under the possession of a certain Moslem. = Through the=20 intercessions of St. Ioannikios the monastery was renovated. But = even=20 then, the hardships and tribulations were great.

Devic was=20 devastated again at the beginning of the 19th century. The monks = were=20 either killed or forced to leave. The monastery was plundered, and = sheep=20 and goats were sacrilegiously brought into the church. In 1858, = after=20 another period of renewal, the Albanian Moslems from the = neighboring=20 villages shot the Abbot, Paisios.

By 1889 new monks were = there, and=20 the brotherhood was able to open an elementary school, which = survived=20 until the beginning of World War I. But during the war, in 1914, = Austrian=20 soldiers plundered the monastery, taking away all of its = livestock,=20 furniture, and copper dishes. Some of the buildings were also = demolished,=20 and the materials were used for making barracks.

In 1941, = during=20 World War II, the monastery was taken down stone by stone and = leveled to=20 the ground by Albanians who brought hammers and picks from their = farms.=20 Abbot Damascene was taken and shot outside the gates, and all the = monks=20 were again forced to flee. The whole monastery was plundered. The=20 ammunition and artillery of the former Yugoslav army was brought = to the=20 monastery and torched, causing a terrible explosion which leveled = all of=20 the buildings. More than one witness saw someone clothed in white = robes=20 roaming about the ruins. It was St. Ioannikios protecting the = altar and=20 the chapel where his relics lie, which were not = destroyed.

The=20 monastery remained in ruins until 1947, when Abbess Parasceva (of = blessed=20 memory) arrived with a novice and a hieromonk. As they began to = gather up=20 the debris, they found the chapel and grave of St. Ioannikios = still=20 intact. With the help of the peasants of the neighboring villages, = the=20 monastery and church were restored to their original likeness. = More and=20 more women came to join the sisterhood, and the people of the = villages=20 were inspired by the nuns' strong faith in God and their great = love for=20 St. Ioannikios. Because of the great danger from the Albanians in = the=20 1980's and 1990's, Christians who visited Kosovo had to be = accompanied by=20 a military escort. We were some of the first pilgrims to travel = somewhat=20 freely in the area. Only a few Serbs from the surrounding villages = dare to=20 come to the monastery any longer, for fear of attack and reprisal = from the=20 Moslems. While we were there one of the sisters had to chase out = an=20 Albanian's pigs which frequently enter the monastery. It seemed to = us a=20 symbol of the continual desire to defile God's house. The most = recent=20 sister to come is in her twenties. The abbess told us that = although she=20 has a university degree in literature, she nevertheless decided to = be a=20 nun and treasures the life there.

She also told us more = about the=20 former abbess, Mother Parasceva, who recently reposed. With the = use of=20 only one arm, at times when there were uprisings of Moslems she = had to=20 bear arms to defend the monastery. She was stoned and beaten many = times by=20 the Albanians. Abbess Anastasia said that up to today the nuns are = stoned=20 and beaten on their way to town. When she was asked whether she = was one of=20 the ones who had endured this, she said that it was not important = to know=20 who was beaten, but that they were privileged to be there under = the=20 protection of St. Ioannikios. They are under constant threat of = arson, and=20 of losing their crops and food stores by theft.

Some of the = monastery buildings were surrounded by scaffolding, and in the = church we=20 saw how lovingly the whole monastery had been rebuilt. The = treasured=20 frescoes were carefully raised from the rubble by the sisters and = patched=20 back piece by piece into the rebuilt walls. In tears we venerated = the=20 relics of the holy St. Ioannikios. The tomb is small and dark, = ancient and=20 filled with grace. In the tomb there is a fresco of two saints = holding a=20 scroll with scriptural quotes on it, which has been almost = completely=20 scratched out. The righteous ascetic, Blessed Stoina (1895), also = labored=20 here for eighty years, eating only bread and water and sleeping = very=20 little.

We met the nuns who had lived here for most of = their lives.=20 In their poverty, even prayer ropes are scarce. One of the nuns = had no=20 prayer rope, and when I eagerly offered mine, in utmost gratitude = she made=20 a prostration to the ground. Another nun had a beaming smile on = her face=20 as she called us to see the sheep that she led out of the barn. = One of the=20 older nuns we met had been there for forty-seven years. These were = the=20 very sisters that had labored and suffered with Abbess Parasceva = in=20 raising this monastery from the dust; and they continue at their = post, as=20 true soldiers of the Heavenly King.

In parting, we said to = Abbess=20 Anastasia how inspired we were by their podvig, their suffering = and=20 readiness for martyrdom, adding that we expect persecutions to = begin in=20 America and how little we are prepared for that kind of suffering. = But in=20 utmost simplicity and humility Mother Anastasia said, "We are = joyful to be=20 here with St. Ioannikios. This is our little desert."

 We=20 beseech thee, holy Ioannikios of Devic,
lift up thy = right hand,=20 shield us,
halt this loss and waste, and gather us = together.=20
We beseech thee, holy Ioannikios of Devic,
shine = forth in=20 front of their guns as they fire,
stand in front of the=20 slaughter,
and melt their knives break their chains. =
As thou=20 dost go barefoot along the ways of the Lord,
in the = midst of=20 fugitives,
in the midst of fire and famine, keep us, =
and=20 raise us up, and teach us on the field of calamity
to = build a=20 City from the stones
with which they stone us!=20
-Ljubomir Simovic=20

 5. = CONCLUSION=20

As we = drove back=20 through the plains of Kosovo, the sun was setting over the golden = fields=20 of wheat, painting a glowing picture like unto a poetic = masterpiece.=20 Caught up in the spirit of the moment, the young people in the bus = once=20 more broke into "O Gentle Light," and their song soared as the = last=20 evening rays turned rose colored and fiery behind the purple = mountains. It=20 was hard to believe that here, on this very plain, tens of = thousands of=20 brave men marched joyfully to their death, making the supreme = sacrifice=20 for the glory of God and Holy Orthodoxy.

"Every glimmering = day,"=20 said Bishop Nikolai, "is another great day in the struggle of the = two=20 kingdoms." Which kingdom shall I choose? Shall I choose the = earthly=20 kingdom? Or shall I choose the heavenly? This question, posed to = the=20 martyred Tsar Lazar, whispers today in the hearts of all young = lovers of=20 godliness and sacrifice. The new sons and daughters of suffering = Serbia=20 are slowly coming to this place of martyrdom, seeking to attain = the=20 cutting edge in the place where the battle is fiercest and the = crowns are=20 eternal. The monastics laboring on the ancient battlefield of = Kosovo have=20 already made their choice: to die an earthly death for the sake of = the=20 Heavenly Kingdom.

From "Orthodox Word"=20 Nos. 193-4
Copyright St. Herman of = Alaska=20 Press

Kosovo and Metohija
Serbian = Orthodox=20 Monasteries of Raska and Prizren Diocese
Intervivew with=20 Abbot Theodosy
Decani Monastery = PHOTO = ALBUM
Everyday life in Decani Monastery
Read more about Orthodox=20 monasticism


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